Sunday 15 April 2012

The Bombshell Sessions #1 First Step: First Fit

Man alive, this dress seems like it is never going to get made! 


It's OK, the first dress does not have to be made until the 9th of June and the second on the 14th of July... phew. I will go to these weddings in 100% Caffy couture!


Finally, I have a muslin to work on- but this has not happened by fairy-dust and magic, oh no, this is a tough dressmaking jigsaw puzzle. Almost like doing a 1000 piece Monet 'Water Lillies' jigsaw puzzle- easy to get the bits mixed up!




The Bombshell dress is a steep learning curve for me. I thought that I was steady away in my progress with the muslin and then I realised that opposing grain-lines are not good... I had inadvertently sewn the bust section upside down. The bust of this dress is a 3-part nightmare. I had sewn the piece number 1 upside down and the wrong way round. Tsk. So I had to re-cut #1 and then resew. It now looks like a decent example of a bodice of a dress, rather than subversive, weird pockets.










Being petite in height and bust has meant that I have cut the dress to the smallest size.


I am making some changes though, see below. Headless pics due to Sunday face-mask day, so I have spared you.




Obviously I will be making the changes on both sides of the bodice. I am hoping to flatten out that stomach area and make it as flattering as possible. I know that the boning and the linings are going to go in, but I am using a pretty similar fabric to the muslin material (cotton) to make my 2 wedding guest dresses. 

The bottom black thread line is where the dress waist will end and the skirt begin.





















So I have made these changes to the pattern...


The original 7 bodice pieces


So essentially, I am just changing pieces 5 and 7. Do you think that this will suffice? 
The only thing that I am planning on doing is pulling the waist in a touch as I have a freakishly small waist. As far as the bust is concerned, I think that a bit of wadding will do the trick to soften the duck-bill look of it right now. I might also lengthen pieces 4, 5, 6 and 7 (the waist sections) 1.5cm. 

But please, if you have any further suggestions... go right ahead and let me know, this is a first for me.

Here is a 360 of the bodice....








So, now I make these two sections again and then see how things look with a bit of a nip and tuck, number 2 of the Bombshell Sessions coming next Sunday....


15 comments:

  1. I have absolutely no fitting experience, I give up at the first hurdle each time. To my untutored eye it looks like you may need to make a sway back adjustment. If it stays up snugly now, I wouldn't take the sides in all the way along the edge of the piece, you don't want a muffin top around your armpits. All in all, I think you've got a great fit at the moment. I don't know where the waist seam is supposed to sit on the dress but it does look like you could shorten it. Of course, if you get better or different advice from someone who actually knows what they're talking about then please do feel free to ignore me!

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    1. Cheers my dear!

      I'm going to remake the whole thing next Saturday with my adaptations. It's one of those- I could be doing to exact opposite of what I should be! Ach, its all learning though isn't !? Thanks Tors, you're a diamond. PS. Did you see what that Size 6 Pink Chiffon Party Dress on eBay is at now?! €81.35?!! Erm, madness

      X

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    2. How much?!!! I gave up on it as soon as I saw it because I knew it wouldn't fit me, I'm really glad it didn't otherwise I'd be adding to the madness, that was once delicious dress!!

      Good luck with the refits, let us know how it goes x

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  2. Like Tors, I am no help when it comes to fitting issues, but I wanted you to feel supported. Good luck with the dress, I am sure you will get it to where you want it to be.

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    1. Thank you so much!

      Let's see next Sunday, lol. I might be barking up the wrong tree entirely here. But we shall see.

      Again, thanks for your support. Means a ruddy lot!

      X

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  3. I agree with Tors - i think you might need to shorten the lower bodice slightly. It looks to me as if your natural waist is slightly above the black thread line. Tie a piece of elastic around your waist and wriggle a bit. Wherever the elastic lies is your natural waist. I think the waistline of this dress needs to sit there. Other than that, it looks pretty good.

    Have you got any wadding to try in the bodice cups? I was taught to fit from the top down - so fit the bust first and once the dress is sitting right at the bust you can work down to the waist.

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    1. I am waiting for some wadding to go in the cups, you're right... its required... ha!

      Thanks for the advice on the bodice... I wasn't sure at all if the bodice was too long or short, I genuinely couldn't make my mind up!

      Thanks again Helen, you diamond

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  4. I always really struggle with alterations - it usually takes me three or four attempts to get anywhere near fitting properly. Well done so far - looking forward to the next installment!

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    1. Weekends are spent doing this dress, next Sunday I shall write about progress! It's very enjoyable... just might be a bit repetitive for readers, but this is learning in action!!!

      Caff x

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  5. Am sure it will look fab once completed.

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    1. Fingers crossed, or I shall be woefully on the aisles of Debenhams buying dresses for these weddings! No!!

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  6. What is your back length? Because I'm 5'05" (1m53) and I do the standard Burda Petite thing with no problems. Since this is strapless, that would mean to take 1,3 cm (3/8in) out of the bodice between bust and waist.

    And also, you'll probably be making an SBA. Cidell recently did a FBA for a bra with a similar shape so you would do the opposite, overlap instead of spreading but in the same configuration, if you will:

    http://missceliespants.com/2012/04/07/lacy-nightgown-burda-112011-131/

    I love this pattern and I'll be following along while you sew. Go Caffy!!! *shakes pompom*

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    1. Woop! Thanks so much! I am working hard to make it turn out just right :D

      I am 5'3'', so maybe the black line is about right, I might iron it up tonight and reatke the pic. I think also a SBA adjustment is required... I didn't want to as the pattern is for a B-cup... but ho hum, I might as well bite the bullet and admit it to myself and the world that.... Caffy needs to do a SBA on a B-Cup... booo hooo! hahahaha

      Thanks again for your support, it's really appreciated! X

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  7. Hi Caffy!!!

    That's fantastic progress! I love your photos, I guess printing out the pattern doesn't seem *too hard* !!

    The muslin looks good on u!

    Printing the pattern was what made me reluctant to take up the bombshell course... I don't think I have the motivation to watch the online tutorials.

    Next dress is sewing class will be something similar to the Bombshell dress, i bought this pattern: http://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m5850-products-10062.php?page_id=109 and according to Pattern Review, it is "highly recommended".

    Once I make one with one-on-one teacher's help, I might be confident enough to do it myself at home. Is the $20 offer still available??

    xx

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  8. Hi Caffy I have nominated you for the Versatile Blogger Award. You needn't participate if it's not your thing (I even modified the requirements lol) but I just wanted to let you know. Details on my blog, just click on my name.

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